Montelago, Naujan Lake: A quiet “beach” retreat with pastoral vibes in Mindoro

Sitting in a kubo (hut) cottage under lush coconut trees, I savor the light breeze and the view of clear blue waters blending with the mountains and sky.

Had I woken up here with no memory, I would think this is a beach in the ocean. I had just ridden across its serene waters so I knew – this is Naujan Lake in Oriental Mindoro, an understated gem just hours away from Puerto Galera, the beach the province is famous for.

Beach vibes in Montelago, Naujan Lake

While I see the lake in front of me, to my back is an abundance of more grass and coconut trees. These are punctuated with hut accommodations for sleeping, and goats and dogs. The place is quiet save for the wind and the occasional barks and bleats.

Montelago is a place to relax and just be.

Close to the open-air cottages are these kubos for sleeping.
These are welcome road “blockages.”

Naujan Lake’s rich biodiversity

Montelago is one of Naujan Lake’s surrounding barangays. The lake is the fifth largest in the Philippines at over 8,000 hectares; it does look like the ocean from afar. It is part of water birds’ migratory route, particularly the East Asian Australasian Flyway. From October to March, thousands of birds take refuge in the warm tropical temperatures here.

Some water birds in Naujan Lake. Photo by Mike Gabinete, Mindoro Biodiversity Conservation Foundation, Inc.

The lake and its surrounding forests are also home to threatened and endangered birds and aquatic life, some of which can only be found in Mindoro and nowhere else on earth.

Butas River, gateway to Montelago

Travelers who want to visit Montelago must pass through Butas River. The river flows both to Naujan and to the sea.

I took a jeepney to the dock and as I waited for my tour guide, I soaked in the river’s vibrant greens, and the occasional whites of bird wings. To my right, children swam and frolicked in the waters.

Butas River’s crystalline waters
The river is also perfect for birdwatching.
It is also a natural playground.

My guide arrived in a motor boat. Mr. Enrique Castillo is the former barangay captain of Montelago and the acting president of one of its local tour associations.

My guide getting the boat ready

The ride to Montelago was a scenic adventure, with Butas River’s greens giving way to Naujan Lake’s blues. Once we rode into the lake, I felt its vastness akin to the sea’s.

Naujan looks as wide as the sea from this perspective.
Boat ride to Montelago, Naujan Lake
As we got closer to Montelago, the lake’s blues deepened into greens.
Montelago up ahead. My guide said the growth that looks like seaweed is a type of lake grass that fishes eat. These remind me of sea grass, which pawikans and other marine life feed on.

Laidback nature adventure

Once Mr. Enrique and I got off the boat, he guided me through drier and more stable parts of the lakeshore. He explained that the lake’s flooding had been prolonged this year – usually, the floods are only November until February, mainly from heavy rain.

Navigating the way to the campsite

Once we arrived, we settled in one of the huts and had a chat and a snack with Mr. Erwin Peres, another local tour guide.

Beach vibes, hut, Montelago, Naujan Lake
We rested in this gazebo with a nipa roof.
Kids running, playing, Montelago, Naujan Lake
While we talked, I watched these kids having fun.

They shared the story on how community-based tourism started in Montelago. Montelago is a quiet barangay of around 2,500 people in seven sitios. The main sitio, or sitio proper, is where the campsite is.

The area became known among Mindoro locals when Montelago residents posted in social media about its hot spring.

Mr. Enrique, who was the barangay captain at that time, worked with other Montelago residents to form a local tour guide association to welcome tourists. At the moment, their association has 25 tour guides. There is also another association in the barangay.

After our chat, we went to the said hot spring.

The hot spring is too hot to take a dip, but the steam is therapeutic enough.
The temperature is also perfect for boiling eggs!
While waiting for the eggs to boil, I went up here for a photo.
The hot spring is just along the lake’s shore.
Mr. Erwin taking the eggs out
Success! Behind this giant egg sculpture and Misters Enrique and Erwin is another smaller hot spring.
Softer than a hard-boiled egg but more solid than a soft-boiled one.

After our jaunt to the hot spring, we walked around the sitio. We passed some sari-sari stores – we bought the eggs from one of them earlier, – the barangay hall, the health center, and went uphill to the chapel.

Montelago’s barangay hall
The chapel up the hill
There is also a simple grotto for the Virgin Mary.
Outside the chapel is this heart art installation that looks made for photos.
This sculpted boat reminded me of tourist attractions in Rizal and even in other places like Bali.
View from the hilltop

When we went down the hill, we walked by their community garden of vegetables and herbs, and later, their fish pond.

I love that the sitio has this shared garden of edibles.
Mr. Erwin feeding the fish in the fish pond
Walking through this lush greenery with the lake ahead is one of my favorite parts of this trip.

This sitio of Montelago reminded me so much of the simple, laidback life I’ve seen in islands not often visited by tourists. Nature thrives, tranquility rules, and warmth from locals overflows.

While I just had a short day trip in Montelago, I felt I just came from an overnight meditation retreat.

That said, the local tour association offers accommodations for overnight stays. One option is the kubo rooms I mentioned above, and another is tents good for groups.

Staying in a hut is P600, good for 2 to 6 persons.
A P500 tent is good for 4-5 persons. Photo courtesy of Montelago Nature Park Association

Groups also have the option to avail of a buffet lunch with ingredients from the lake, like the kuhol in ginataang kuhol. At the moment, meals like these are not available. It is best to inquire with the tour guide association (contact number provided at the end of this article).

Lunch cooked with local ingredients, some of them from the lake. Meals are usually P199 up. Photo courtesy of Montelago Nature Park Association

Visitors can also do outdoor adventure activities like kayaking and horseback riding.

Kayak rental is P200 good for two people. Photo courtesy of Montelago Nature Park Association
Horseback riding is P100, while it is only P20 to get your photo taken atop a horse. Photo courtesy of Montelago Nature Park Association

With or without these outdoor activities, the ride to and from Montelago is already an adventure in itself. This is P700 roundtrip, usually good for two people.

The sunset ride back for me was the perfect ending to my Montelago retreat. I saw some more of Naujan’s thriving water birds, some even resting on debris in the lake.

Perfect way to end this lake adventure

How to get there:

From Manila: Ride a bus to Batangas Pier from Alabang, Buendia-Taft, Cubao, or other terminals (2 hours or more). From the pier, take the roro or fastcraft to Calapan (1 hour for fastcraft, 2 1/2 hours or more for roro). From Calapan Market, ride a jeep to Bayani (around 1 hour). This is where the dock for the boat ride to Montelago is. Alternatively from Calapan, take a van or jeep to NATSCO, then take a tricycle to Bayani.

For inquiries, contact:

Ms. Resma Tungol Perez
President, Montelago Nature Park Association
(63)951-6181175

Hosts, local tour guide association, Montelago, Naujan Lake
Grateful to my hosts!

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